Which climbing plant

You'll enjoy gardening so much more if you're comfortable and everything is to hand. The removable bag fastens with press studs and includes spacious side compartments for hand tools, dibbers, pens, string, and other necessities, and a central section perfect for larger items or a spot of lunch. Another handy cutting tool, loppers are basically long-handled pruning shears used to trim hard-to-reach areas and cut thicker branches.

Don't miss the incredible action going on in your own garden. A good wildlife camera will capture all the exciting activity. This one from RSPB can be used to view anything from birds on a feeder, bird tables and nest box entrances, to hedgehogs and other nocturnal wildlife. It can also even be used to keep an eye on the garden or house as a security camera. Maintain an ideal growing environment with an easy-to-use soil tester kit. You can test the pH and nutrient profile of your soil, think soil acidity and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash, to see if it needs extra help.

If you buy one with an adjustable nozzle, it puts you in control of the water pressure and spray radius. You can also buy nozzles separately. Type keyword s to search. How to choose the best climbing plants for your garden It is worth paying attention to the eventual height a climber will reach before you choose to plant it — some types grow only to head height, while others are so vigorous they will reach for the roof and keep going.

Climbing plant supports Climber wall support. Square willow trellis. Traditional steel obelisk. Elegant tiered metal obelisk - two tier wall. Jasminum officinale. Sweet Pea Lathyrus odoratus. Wisteria floribunda. Clematis macropetala. Jasminum nudiflorum. Japanese quince 'Crimson and Gold'. Clematis armandii Apple Blossom. Potato vine Solanum crispum.

Star jasmine Trachelospermum jasminoides. Chocolate vine Akebia quinata. Hydrangea anomala. Rose Rambling Rector rambler. Chinese virginia creeper Parthenocissus henryana. Holboellia coriacea. Boston Ivy Parthenocissus tricuspidata. Variegated kiwi Actinidia tetramera.

Crimson glory vine Vitis coignetiae. Black eyed susan vine 'Suzie Orange with Eye'. Eccremocarpus scaber Chilean Glory Flower. Morning glory 'Heavenly Blue'. Wisteria frutescens. Flowering maple Abutilon megapotamicum. Clematis Etoile Violette. Trumpet vine 'Madame Galen'. Rhodochiton atrosanguineus. Passion flower Passiflora. English ivy 'Glacier'. Honeysuckle Lonicera japonica. RHS Burgon and Ball stainless digging spade.

DeWit double leaf rake. Sicilian lemon kneeler pillow. Garden Apron. Webb electric rotary mower ER40 15". Opt for a more eco-friendly electric lawnmower as opposed to a petrol one. RHS Burgon and Ball stainless steel digging fork.

DeWit Dutch hoe. Galvanised Watering Can. Set of 6 Plant Tags. Tool stool. Fiskars Solid Lopper Bypass L RSPB Garden wildlife camera - new. It provides shelter for nesting birds and hibernating insects, nectar for pollinators, berries for birds and leaves for caterpillars including the holly blue butterfly. When established, all clematis provide nesting shelter for a variety of birds and other species.

If you leave the seedheads in place birds will take the material to use in their nests in spring. Hydrangea anomala subsp. Like all climbers it provides shelter for a variety of different species, including nesting birds. However, if you grow it on a south-facing wall, its flowers are a magnet for pollinating hoverflies and other insects. Pyracantha flowers in spring and bears berries in autumn, providing two seasons of colour and interest for us, and food for wildlife.

Give climbers support by fixing horizontal wires, 45cm apart, to your fence or wall. Space the vine eyes 1. Secure the ends by looping through the eye and wrapping around the shank. You can tighten the wire using a pair of pliers to turn the end of the vine eye. Before planting, stand the climber in water to soak the rootball thoroughly.

Then dig a large planting hole at least 45cm from the base of your wall or fence. Add plenty of garden compost to retain moisture in the soil, as this location is often very dry. When planting, point the climber in the direction you want it to grow by tilting the rootball at a 45 degree angle.

Growing climbers up other plants is a great way to add an extra season of interest to trees, spring-flowering shrubs and evergreens.

Climbers always head towards the sun, so the trick when training them is always to plant them on the shady, north side of your living support. To clad a wall with a shrub such as ceanothus , set up series of horizontal wires, as above.

Tie in the main shoot vertically, then fan out the side branches and tie in too. After flowering, remove any branches growing out from the wall, and tie in other shoots to fill any gaps. After the first two years, trim all flowered shoots to cm. First cut back any excess growth in spring to keep its shape against the wall, then in late summer snip the new growth back to just beyond the berries so they stand out against a leafy background.

This charming hardy climber creates a canopy of glossy green foliage, which in summer is strewn with flat white panicles of flowers on long stems. Add colour to your garden this winter, select from pansy 'Colourburst', 'Grande Fragrance', wallflower 'Wizard' and viola 'Valentino'.

A superb evergreen bearing delicate, waxy, bell-shaped flowers in the depths of winter, with lush green foliage for year-round interest. Home Plants Climbing plants. This review contains affiliate links and we may receive a commission for purchases made. Please read our affiliates FAQ page to find out more. Black-centered, orange flowers of black-eyed Susan. Trachelospermum asiaticum. Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum. Grapevine Vitis vinifera. This is a Zone 4 clematis hybrid, has dark purple blooms and a delicate looking vine, but boasts a hardy constitution.

It blooms over a long period starting in June and if deadheaded and lightly pruned after flowering, will bloom into September.

While this plant needs to be pruned to a height of 4" from the ground in early spring, it will climb to the top of a 10' tall trellis by bloom time. Give it a sunny spot, plant some low growing perennials at the base to keep the roots cool, water and feed it well and it will give you lots of colour with minimal care. SL: I have had good luck with climbing hydrangea Hydrangea petiolaris.

A native of Japan, it's a woody climber that is hardy to Zone 5. This species can vine its way up a chain link fence, ascend a north facing brick wall, or even a dead tree trunk in a shady location without any assistance. It will take a year or two to establish a robust root system before it starts to climb following planting but you can expedite this process by buying as big a plant as you can afford and watering it deeply so that it never dries out.

Once the vine is established, it will produce masses of white lacy flower heads that turn green and then brown as they age. The leaves turn a nice buttery yellow in the fall and once they fall, the buff flaky bark of the stout branches is exposed. In snowy areas, the twigs and dead flower heads catch the snow and create interesting effects in the winter garden. SL: Each species has specific needs. All vines need a good head start, so dig a planting hole two times the size of its root ball larger if you can and mix a 2" thick layer of well-rotted manure or compost into the hole.

In general, good plant cultivation in well-amended soil with sufficient light and water will help vines climb and spread. However, too much feeding may encourage growth of foliage at the expense of flowers, this is especially true for rampant growers like Wisteria or Morning Glories that flower best in poor soil. JP: Similar to most trees, shrubs, and perennials, when vines are planted in the landscape they will go through a period of transplant shock.

The first year they sleep, the second year they creep and the third year they leap. After planting, it is important to irrigate your new plants as necessary.

For most vines, additional nutrition fertilizer should not be necessary if the proper vine is chosen for the location. Make sure that you allow the vine good access to the structure which it will grow on.

This means you may need some temporary braces in order for it to reach the final destination. Consider strategic pruning in the early years to keep stems going in the direction you prefer.

If you are growing clematis, keep track of which types you grow as this will determine the best methods of pruning that is required pruning clematis can be broken down into three groups, each with a different method of pruning.

JP: Too many to count. Some of the worst, most destructive invasive plant species are vines. The combination of a rapid growth rate, excessive seed production, ability to root along their stems, capacity to strangle other plants, and overall the competitive nature of vines has allowed many species to become problematic.

The potential for invasiveness depends on your location but in many parts of Canada, some of these species are already established invasives and some species are ones which we should be wary of planting due to the potential to invade as demonstrated in other regions of the world.

It is important to recognize the invasive potential and to eradicate the problems early before these species get too far out of control. Even our native poison-ivy Toxicodendron radicans can be considered invasive given the risk it poses to human health.

Vine species which we have historically grown in our gardens and have become potential invasive issues:. SL: Unless you have the time, knowledge, or a fearless horticulturist friend who loves pruning, do not plant a Wisteria vine.

If left alone, Wisteria can become a rampant tree-swallowing mass of foliage that rarely blooms. In order to bring out the best in a Wisteria, they require formative training when the vine is young and rigorous pruning once it is mature.

The most important technique in getting Wisteria to bloom is to reduce the current year's growth to the lowest buds in late summer. This may be a daunting task for a novice gardener to perform on an 8 foot tall step ladder!

JP: Restricting vines to a certain space or shape is possible but it can be time consuming. During the growing season, some vines can put on multiple feet of growth in a short time, so being vigilant and consistent in your training regime is important.

It is easier to properly train a vine while it is young and pliable and within reach. It can be very difficult to untangle mature specimens and then begin to train it to the shape you want. Look to remove stems heading in the wrong directions, guide stems in the direction you want them to grow, and don't hesitate to make some drastic but strategic pruning cuts.

Also consider your annual pruning routine as some types of vines like wisteria and clematis can be particular to pruning methods in order to flower properly. Use wire, ties, or clips to hold stems to the structure or train them in the preferred directions. If your vine has already become too overgrown, for most vines, I would not think twice about completely rejuvenating the plant by cutting all the stems down to soil level and starting again.

JP: If portions of your vine don't look as good as others, it could be due to many factors.